Out Islands by Mailboat: The Slow Way to Travel

Before there were flights to every Out Island, there were mailboats — government-subsidized cargo ferries carrying mail, groceries, building supplies, and a handful of passengers from Nassau to the rest of the archipelago. They still run. Most tourists never know.

Why bother

• Cheap. $45–70 one-way to most islands, vs. $200+ to fly.
• Slow. 6 to 18 hours depending on destination. This is the point.
• Real. You are the only tourist on board. The cargo hold has refrigerators, lumber, and a goat.

How to book

Mailboats depart from Potter's Cay, under the Paradise Island bridge. The schedule is posted on a chalkboard at the Dockmaster's Office and changes constantly. Call the Dockmaster (242-393-1064) the morning of departure to confirm. Cash only, paid at the dock.

A sample of routes

• Captain Moxey — Nassau → Long Island, weekly, ~14 hr overnight.
• MV Sea Hauler — Nassau → Cat Island, weekly, ~12 hr.
• Lady D — Nassau → North Andros, twice weekly, ~5 hr.
• Lady Mathilda — Nassau → Eleuthera (Governor's Harbour), twice weekly, ~7 hr.

Schedules change with weather, season, and mechanical reality. Always confirm.

What to pack

• Cash — exact fare and tips.
• Snacks and water — there is no galley.
• A jacket and a sleeping pad — most passengers sleep on benches or the deck.
• Motion-sickness pills — the Tongue of the Ocean is not always polite.
• A book. No Wi-Fi. Spotty cell signal between islands.

The overnight experience

You leave Nassau in the evening as the city lights pull back. By midnight you're under more stars than you knew existed. By dawn you're idling into a settlement where the dockworkers know everyone on board by name except you. Someone will offer you a ride to wherever you're going.

A small honest warning

Mailboats are working boats. Departures are delayed. Arrivals are flexible. If you have a flight to catch on the other end, do not take the mailboat back.

For everyone else — for one direction of a trip, with no schedule pressure — there is no better way to feel the size of this country.