Junkanoo: A First-Timer's Survival Guide

Junkanoo is the Bahamas' national festival — a competitive parade of music, dance, and elaborate cardboard-and-crepe costumes that takes over Bay Street twice a year. It is loud, exhausting, and the most Bahamian thing you will ever see.

When it happens

• Boxing Day (Dec 26) — the big one. Parade starts around 2:00 a.m. and runs until ~10:00 a.m.
• New Year's Day — the rematch.
• Smaller "Junior Junkanoo" and summer Goombay parades run throughout the year.

Yes, 2 a.m. The whole island is awake.

Where to stand

Bay Street is bleachered on both sides between Rawson Square and the British Colonial. Bleacher tickets ($25–75) go on sale in November through the Junkanoo Corporation; the closer to Rawson Square, the better the view of the judges' stand. Standing on the sidewalks behind the bleachers is free but you will see knees, not costumes.

What you are watching

Two "A" groups (currently Saxons Superstars and Valley Boys) and several smaller groups compete in four categories:

• Music — driven by goatskin drums, cowbells, brass, and whistles.
• Costume — themed, hand-built for months, judged on craft and execution.
• Choreography — synchronized dance with the costumes.
• Overall presentation — does the whole thing tell a story?

Judges score each group as it passes the stand. Results are announced days later and disputed for months.

What to bring

• Earplugs. The brass section is no joke.
• Cash for conch fritters and Kalik.
• A light jacket — it's still December at 4 a.m.
• A printed schedule, because cell service buckles.

What not to do

• Don't wear a costume. You will be politely corrected.
• Don't try to walk on the parade route. Cross at Rawson Square between groups.
• Don't leave at 4 a.m. The best costumes come out near sunrise.

The history in one paragraph

Junkanoo traces to enslaved Africans on Bahamian plantations who were given three days off at Christmas. They used the time to parade in costume, drum, and visit other plantations. The tradition survived emancipation, evolved through the 20th century, and is now the largest cultural production in the country. The cowbells are the link.

Sleep on the 25th. Eat before midnight. Stand for as much of it as you can.